The last remains of Barnum's mansions
By Tony Spinelli Connecticut Post Staff Writer 03/02/2009
A drive along Clinton Avenue in Bridgeport reveals dozens of fine, large, old homes that in the 1800s were the not-so-humble abodes of some wealthy and substantial people. And the most splendid "show homes" of all those in the West End neighborhood were those owned by Bridgeport's most famous resident, Phineas Taylor Barnum. As one of the country's first 19th century self-made millionaires, P.T. Barnum built himself four magnificent homes in the city. "Barnum spared no expense on his homes, especially his first home, dubbed Iranistan [on the corner of Fairfield Avenue and Iranistan Avenue] with a total construction cost of more than $150,000 of 19th century money," said Alessandra Wood, collections manager for the Barnum Museum. According to measuring worth.com, $150,000 in 1847 dollars has the same "purchase power" as $4,047,048 in 2008 dollars. The homes were not only grand -- incorporating cut stone and fancy woodwork -- they also featured the leading technology of their day.
"You can imagine the amenities," Wood said. "Iranistan had gas lighting and indoor plumbing in 1847. He spared no expense and his homes were world-renowned. His stationery had pictures of Iranistan on it, and the legend has it that opera star Jenny Lind decided to tour with Barnum after seeing a picture of his home." Ironically, while these homes were among the finest in the city, little of them remain today, mostly in the form of gates and fences. Iranistan, completed in 1848, exists only in drawings and artists' models. Stone street markers still stand on State and Yale streets, denoting the location of Lindencroft, Barnum's second, smaller mansion, built in 1860 after a period of recovery from bankruptcy.
Parts of Waldemere -- a huge, gingerbread home facing Long Island Sound -- still exist but only because they were incorporated into other homes. A house on Rennell Street and Atlantic Avenue in the South End used part of a bedroom wing, and a Victorian home on the beach in Stratford's Lordship section came from the center parlor of Waldemere. It was floated out to Lordship on a barge more than a century ago. "Being here, you get a crazy feeling of Barnum's life and the things he did," said Katie Bowe, who has lived in the home for years. Her parents, the actors Nancy Marchand [of the "Lou Grant" TV series] fame and Paul Sparer, acquired the property in 1977. Now it is in her possession. "My parents loved Victorian things and decorated the house that way," she said. Stone and wrought iron gates, displaying a large letter "M," are all that remain standing of Marina, Barnum's fourth and last home in Bridgeport's South End. As for the decor, a chandelier is all that is left, and is in the collection of the Barnum Museum.
Other bits and pieces are said to surface now and then at antique sales. Barnum could have built his mansions anywhere, including New York City, where his Barnum's American Museum was famous for its curiosities like giants and bearded ladies. But he chose Bridgeport, according to Wood, because he was native to the state (he was born in Bethel in 1810), was once mayor of Bridgeport and because it was on the rail line between New York and Boston. "It was a way to have a lot of land, a grand estate, and still be accessible to New York City," Wood said. The palatial homes Barnum built for his family tell a lot about his personality, said Mary Witkowski, director of historical collections at the Bridgeport Public Library. "Barnum was someone, who early on immediately liked the things of the world, even the architecture he chose for his houses," Witkowski said. "His houses were among the finest." Barnum's Homes Iranistan, at Iranistan and Fairfield avenues. It took 500 carpenters and laborers to build it in 1847 and was completed in 1848. It was famous for its "onion" domes and architectural effects that suggest the Persian world. Barnum lived in it during the years his Barnum's American Museum in New York City was a phenomenon, and during the time he toured the United States with opera star Jenny Lind. Then came a period of fires at home (Iranistan burned down in 1857) and at work, bankruptcy and living in rented homes and apartments for several years, until he restored his solvency. Lindencroft, located 500 yards west of Iranistan, between Fairfield Avenue and State Street. Barnum lived in the stately, but not oversized home, from 1860 to 1869. It was sold to other parties through the years and no longer stands.
Barnum lived in this home near State and Yale streets during the period of the Civil War, which brought rioting and fires to New York City. Waldemere, on what is now called Marina Circle on the south side of the University of Bridgeport campus, adjacent to Seaside Park. The property originally extended from Atlantic Street. Barnum lived in the huge, ornate gingerbread home by Long Island Sound, from 1869 to 1888. It was in this splendid Victorian home that Barnum served as mayor of Bridgeport and began his years as a circus impresario. Marina, next door to Waldemere, on what is now Marina Circle at Iranistan and Waldemere avenues. This was Barnum's final home, from 1888 until his death in 1891. He built it to satisfy his new younger wife, Nancy, who wanted no part of Waldemere and its memories of Barnum's late wife, Charity. A simpler home than the others, but one that had every modern upgrade at the time, including electricity. Designed by the same Bridgeport architect, Marina resembled the Barnum Museum, although less ornate.
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